Art Deco Tutti Frutti Clip Brooch from Cartier

Art Deco Tutti Frutti clip brooch in 18 karat gold (750) and platinum (900). Brooch taking the form of a crescent moon, decorated with flowers stylized by petals carved with sapphires, rubies and emeralds, the pistil represented by single cut diamonds. This brooch is composed of fourteen rubies, seventeen sapphires, nine emeralds and fourteen diamonds. Art Deco brooch, in the style of Cartier Paris Tutti Frutti jewelry, circa 1925 Eagle head hallmark, dog head hallmark and illegible goldsmith's hallmark.

Dimensions : 25 x 32 mm Estimated weight of sapphires : 2.55 carats Estimated weight of rubies : 2.10 carats Estimated weight of emeralds : 0.90 carats Estimated weight of diamonds: 0.28 carat Condition: scratches from use Weight : 8.69 gr About the Tutti Frutti style: In the mid-1920s, Cartier introduced a wonderfully imaginative and innovative style of jewelry depicting numerous flowers and fruits interpreted in a profusion of colors and textures. This jewelry was called "fruit salad" or tutti frutti. This term, coined by Cartier, seemed an appropriate choice to express the exuberant creativity away from the strict geometry typical of the Art Deco period. Cartier's tutti frutti style is characterized by a profusion of colors, textures and contrasts. The Indian influence that made Cartier successful from 1925 onwards and the contribution of the talented Jeanne Toussaint can be seen. Soon after her arrival in 1907, Jeanne Toussaint became the "soul" of the jewelry department. She loved Indian jewelry and the Mughal style, and was greatly inspired by exotic carved gems and Indian cabochons. She was also influenced by Diaghilev's Russian ballets, with their exotic themes and dazzling use of color and movement. Both influences are evident in Cartier's tutti frutti pieces. Her vision and success with tutti frutti jewelry led her to become head of Cartier's jewelry department in 1933.